Author: Phil

After breakfast of delicious egg, ham and cheese sandwiches, potatoes, fruit and the obligatory coffee, Daniel and I headed off crossing back over the Missouri River and up the right bank for the day!

The magnificent, seemingly endless fields of corn, wheat, soybean, oats, etc. caused us to wonder.  With so much seeming plenty, how can can any children in the world go to bed hungry?

The temperatures, the quality of the roads, the scarcity of traffic and the light winds had the morning be wonderful.  Once we turned East again at Burke we encountered headwinds for the balance of the day.  Steve at the Burke One Stop, was pleasant and helpful, and Renee (originally from Rapid City) at the convenience store in Herrick greeted us with a smile!

We did realize that there were NO clouds, zilch, nada, nothing!  Neither of us had a full morning (and into the late afternoon) of cloudless sky! Daniel and I took turns leading into the headwinds.

We eventually descended into Randall Creek State Recreation Area to meet with Cathy for a Small Saturday celebration.  (Small Saturday is a Swedish term for Wednesday, when it’s time to celebrate like it’s almost Saturday because you have made it half-way through the work week!)  We lunched on quesadillas and dined on hot dogs (at Daniel’s request).

We’ve made some arrangements to have ‘professional’ attention to our bikes before RAGBRAI, and have an invitation to Threase’s pool, with our guests (from Chicago and Topeka) when we have an extended three-and-a-half day break in Des Moines.

Another wonder-filled day being put to rest!  We should sleep well before continuing along the Missouri River tomorrow.

Cheers!

After camping in one of South Dakota’s state parks, we are sold on their friendliness and cleanliness!  Thanks to Lori, Rick and others at Left Tailrace!  We were again greeted with a friendly ‘Hello!’  The camp attendant at Snake Creek for today was Justin, and he succinctly directed us to where Cathy was waiting, with refreshing re-hydration drinks.  But let me return to our riding experience for the day.

After a fantastic breakfast of blueberry pancakes and bacon, Daniel and I were off on our two-wheeled, self-propelled vehicles.  We finished crossing the Missouri River, and after a few quick blocks in Fort Thompson, we turned right onto BIA Route 4 entering the Crow Foot Reservation.  We rode along with great views of the Missouri, its width and grandeur were stunning this morning.  We had a few climbs after leaving the Reservation, with a downhill into Chamberlain.

We passed the St. Joseph’s Indian School before stopping at the North Bay One Stop.  DeNell provided friendly attention, and an endorsement of our choice to stay at Snake Creek.  (He might have a slight bias, as he grew up near Snake Creek.)  Also, in the store was a teacher from St. Joseph’s.  I (brashly) inquired as to whether the school had been bothered by the relatively recent negative coverage of the Federal Indian Schools.  She shared that St. Joseph’s is not a Federal school, and has always been a school where parents would enroll their children.  (The controversy with the Federal schools had to do with the apprehension of youth, and forcing them to be indoctrinated in the predominantly white/European culture.)

After ‘climbing’ out of Chamberlain, we were surrounded by LARGE fields of corn, soybeans, wheat and oats.  We were definitely being sensitized to some of what we will be seeing as we cross Iowa!

As we approached Snake Creek, and were about 10 miles from Snake Creek, we had a flat tire.  This time it was my rear tire, not Daniel’s!  While I was changing out the tube, the local farmer saw my bike upside down (usually a sign of distress).  He parked his tractor, and came by to ask what was going on and whether we needed assistance.  We didn’t need assistance, but he assisted unasked.  It was Ray Tegeoff (pronounced Take-it-Off).  He’s been a farmer for 67 years, and had the fields on the East and West of the road!  He was surprised that both Daniel and I were expecting to finish our journeys on the East Coast, and commented that we are crazy.  We responded that ‘Aren’t you a farmer, calling us crazy?’  It was all a good-natured exchange, and wished each other well!

We went on to the Snake Creek Recreation Area, lunched on rotisserie chicken, potato salad and coleslaw.  Daniel did visit the shoreline to discover a 150 meter beach.  After naps and showers we attended to our bikes, looking forward to the quick ~900 foot climb from the campground, crossing back to the ‘right bank’ (aka West bank) of the Missouri for our ride tomorrow.

Cathy treated us to a dinner of pasta primavera, garlic bread and lemon poundcake.  While dining, we observed a young girl, seemingly with perpetual motion, use every different slide on the playground adjacent to our campsite.  (There are at least four different slides to the equipment!).  She did resist, when pulled away for her dinner and bedtime.  We continue to have that energy and persistence of youth as we ‘glide’ across the Country’s terrain.  

We continue to be amazed and appreciate those that come by to ask what we are doing, and how they may be of assistance.  Peace!  (See Maya Angelou.)

We waited to leave Murdo until after the overnight rain stopped, at about 8:00A.  Chris texted us from Cedar Pass Campground to inquire whether we had experienced the same severe winds and rain.  Fortunately, we had spent the night indoors.  Chris was awakened at ~1:00A with what he referred to as F5 winds, and was afraid he AND his tent would be lifted away!

Daniel and I were treated to a spectacular tailwind from Murdo to Reliance.  20+ mph riding uphill in top gear was not unusual!  The terrain was a bit more varied than the day before, with more trees and gentle rolls.  We reached Presho in under two hours, and stopped at the convenience store gas station.  The counter attendant had on a shirt that nothing runs on empty, but my retort was that my bike had zero petrol, and was fairly speedy today.

When we stopped to take off our jackets, a maintenance worker in his pick-up stopped to talk.  We asked him where he was heading, and he responded that he was headed to the Cafe for coffee.  He asked whether he could give us a ride.  With a chuckle, we said, ‘No!’

We did not need a slip stream to hustle to Reliance.  Once we turned North, though, the crosswind was vicious.  We travelled by wheat and corn fields, and along rice paddies on our way to cross the bridge at Big Bend Dam.  The birds and water fowl along the way were different than what we had seen, and the wind across the prairie grass was causing the fields to ‘wave.’

It was grands to first see the Missouri River and the Big Bend Dam!  We came across the bridge and down into the Left Tailrace Recreation Area to camp for the night.  The cross wind across the dam was something more than significant!

We met Lori at the entrance to the camping area.  She was attentive, and move our campsite to another with more shade.  The showers were the BEST!  Phil also enjoyed a siesta in the hammock!!

We met Dale and Tammy with the Kansas City Police Athletic League.  The League takes some of their 60-90 youth on weekly excursions.  This week they are treating some to first-time fishing, both daylight and night-time.  It is great to have adults and youth together, doing things that may be different than what they would encounter each day.  It has been exciting to see the youth testing their casting skills, and hopefully they will have some catching experiences, too!

Cathy made another great dinner/nutritious meal for Daniel and I to enjoy, along with a couple of adult beverages.  We had the opportunity to enjoy the showers here at a state park in South Dakota (THE BEST)!  Being on an island in the middle of the Missouri River, with some water flowing and barges bellowing, should provide the background to a great evening of rest and sleep.

Today, Daniel was able to connect with his mother and explain why his path across the United States is a bit different than originally planned.  He said he had connected with some really crazy and engaging folks.  (I think he meant Cathy and I!!).  Cathy and I were able to connect with my sister in Westlake, OH.  She is hoping to meet us somewhere on our path across Kentucky.  (We did warn her that Daniel may need a place to stay if he chooses a route across Ohio post-RAGBRAI.)

Certainly, another grand day!!

Wonderful breakfast sandwiches and home fries from Cathy, and our earliest start for a day of riding!  We were off with a great tailwind!  The rolling hills along the service road were grand, the road surface was great, and (maybe) we had seven cars pass us on the way to Murdo!

Daniel’s front tube decided it would have a slow leak, so Daniel could practice his tube changing prominence.  (He had left a stone on the inside of the tire when he changed it yesterday!!)  We did make one stop on the way, and then came upon a gathering of horses for a Sunday morning rodeo.  There were threatening clouds letting some precipitation down Northeast of where we were riding, but that never came into play with our ride.

Daniel and I arrived in Murdo just as Cathy was driving into town.  We stopped for lunch together at the Covered Wagon Cafe, before heading to the American Inn for an early check-in.  After showers, we went next door to the Pioneer Auto Show (and other stuff) and were treated to an eclectic display of items, from cars, toys, historic paraphernalia, and other items donated on display inside multiple buildings! (While at the Cafe, we met Brian, a friend of Willie’s from Willie’s Distillery in Ennis. He is traveling with Boy Scout Troop 97 on their way West to the Boy Scout Camp in the Black Hills! They should have a super time.)

Tim has at the American Inn and RV Park a cyclist-friendly environment.  He has bike rags for cleaning bikes, and encourages cyclists to bring their bikes inside the Inn.  The Inn is located along Route 248/Adventure Cycling’s Parks, Peaks and Prairies route.

We dined at the Rusty Spur, and requested to be seated in Xavier’s area.  Xavier is from Jamaica and is working in Murdo for the Summer.  We first met him at the Pilot Convenience Store, where we heard of his second job at the Rusty Spur.  (I do recommend the Steak Tip Salad.)

Cathy, Daniel and remote others are having some joy over my freaking cows, horses, and other animals we encounter along the way.  ‘Some’ have commented that the greetings may lull the animals into a comfortable space, only to be eaten later.  Animals do need friends, too!

Enjoying a night in a ‘real bed’ is a treat, as well as having a hot shower!  Simple pleasures!

We left Cedar Pass after breakfast and a few offers for ‘better bandages.’  The excursion through Bad Lands National Park was spectacular, and included a couple of drivers asking if we needed water!  The last ascent in the Park was a challenge for legs bruised and not yet awake.  Daniel earned ‘KOM’ (King of the Mountain for the day!!

After the Park there was a sprint to meet Cathy for lunch at Wall Drug, and $..05 coffee plus free ice water!  We were taken aback, as there was a great crowd at Wall Drug, as the City of Wall had just completed their opening of Wall Days with a parade down Main Street, of course ending with ice cream at Wall Drug!

After lunch, Daniel and I decided to avoid traveling on Interstate 90, and took 4th Avenue out of Wall.  The street turned into the Wall Dump Road, which became gravel/single track/cyclocross muck before offering a connection to Route 14.  We gained much muck onto our bikes, and Daniel experienced another flat tire.  This one the front.

As the temperatures climbed into the triple digits (Fahrenheit), Cathy came to our rescue and transported us to Minute Man RV Park in ‘Philip?’  As it was VERY warm, we each had cold showers and enjoyed corn-on-the-cob with cold cut sandwiches, followed by soft serve from across the street.

We are planning for an early start (for us) tomorrow to try to beat some heat!

After seeing Chris and Bob off this morning, a breakfast of quesadilla with salsa, and a discussion with Brad (from Washington State, sharing his experience de-Deffing his Sprinter Van), Daniel and I headed off for a monster day!  The first twenty or so miles were very much rrrolling hills with downslopes at 9+% and a few upslopes at 16+%.  We did encounter chip sealing construction for 10+ miles, and the downhills were a bit unsettling on the loose gravel.

After a few uphills entering Rapid City we climbed and descend the Skyline.  The views were amazing and surprising as to how high over the City we had biked, and the descent, with myriad switchbacks, was exciting.  Going through Rapid City along the creek trail was great, EXCEPT Daniel’s new rear tire sliced, and did a rooster spray of sealant.  PLUS, not a quarter mile later, I took a spill on a pothole underneath a bridge.  (My eyes had not yet adjusted from sunlight to under-bridge-dimness, and I skinned a knee, hip and elbow.  All-in-all not the worst of travails, but annoying in the context of a 100-mile day.

Leaving Rapid City, we were met with miles and miles and miles of farms.  Daniel said that the farms are necessary, but counting the rumble strips along the shoulder might be more interesting.  We stopped at the Country Corner, just past Farmingdale, and met Robin, the proprietor.  We did pass a message onto Chris and Bob that the CC is open, and the hours, so that they can stop when they travel by tomorrow (?).

We continued riding, and the temperatures and road continued to climb!  On entering the Bad Lands, our observation was that the most recent three days of riding included Devil’s Tower, Davil’s Bath Tub (in Spearfish Canyon,  and today the Bad Lands!  Is there some message here?

We did stop by the Cowboy Corner in Interior, as our remaining hydration was more like tea water, without the tea.  Of course, Daniel had a Coke and bottle of water, and treated me to a Diet Coke and a bottle of water.  All of which were consumed within the two miles that remained till we reached the campsite for tonight.

Cathy provided great recovery beverages, and dinner included spaghetti bolognese and garlic bread, with ice cream dessert!

While cleaning dishes, Cathy met Pam from Boston, who was next in line.  Pam spends time working on Martha’s Vineyard, which is on Cathy’s bucket list!  Between Pam (Boston) and Brad (Washington State) there was a mini-coast-to-coast connections for the day.

Cathy and Daniel headed off for an astronomy/dark skies presentation, while Phil is nursing his travel wounds from the day.  After 103 miles we should sleep well, and maybe enjoy a fantastic sun rise!

Leaving Hulett included waiting for convenience store/restrooms to open, watching Chris put some petrol into his bicycle, and having a bit of moisture along with headwinds greet our day on our bikes!  We found out that we had crossed into South Dakota (state number 5) when Daniel received a text from Veronika, who has been watching our progress from Sweden on an app!

We met up with Cathy for lunch in Jorgensen Park in Spearfish, stopped by Rushmore bikes to have Daniel’s rear tired changed out (and his transmission was cleaned too), and Cathy and Daniel made a run to Walmart (while Phil took a nap in our loft for the evening).  We celebrated Cathy’s birthday at Spearfish Brewery with Daniel and Cathy ‘tasting’ ten beers.  We stopped next door for dinner of shrimp Alfredo and a veggie burger for Cathy!  (She received ‘real’ biking shorts and a portable/compact projector and screen.). Included with the evening was some cultural education for Daniel through several episodes from Saturday Night Live, particularly Chris Farley’s motivational speech of ‘living in the van, down by the river!

Started from downtown Spearfish and our AirBNB ‘loft’ stay above Main Street in a historic building built in 1900, and rode leisurely up through Spearfish Canyon.  We stopped by Bridal Veil Falls to take a picture of Daniel to send to his girlfriend Veronika (who he is meeting in New York City at the end of his journey).  She responded that ‘He is mine!’

We continued our ride past the Lodge near the top of the Canyon, and onto the Mickelson Trail.  The early section for us along the Trail was a gentle, slight downhill through forest and meadows, along ponds and open range.  The Trail is South Dakota’s first Rail-to-Trail efforts, and is named after the former governor who championed the effort.  Eventually, the gentle downhill gave way to climbing a bit, and through four former train tunnels.  Twas quite a treat to be away from any motorized traffic! We met Ken, a local, that does the Mickelson at least once per year, and was riding a Trek, as is Daniel.  We also met Jim (former Littleton, CO resident) and Randy (current Englewood, CO resident), who are riding the Mickelson.  They let us know that Bob and Chris were close ahead.  Daniel put the pedal-to-the-metal, and we were able to catch up with B and C just before Hill City.

[We did have some light rain coming up from the Canyon, again on the Mickelson Trail twice, and again on the ride from Hill City to Keystone.  We donned our light rain jackets two-three times, but the light rain was cooling.]

[Daniel mistook a chipmunk for a baby dinosaur!  Not nearly as exciting as Melissa’s reaction to a dead snake in the road!]

We lunched at Pizzeria Mangiamo (Daniel had the Big Kahuna pizza (pineapple, mango, and tuna) that he inhaled. We are planning a rest day for tomorrow, and will visit Mount Rushmore.

Together with the excursion through the Canyon, the section of the Mickelson provided a great morning/day of riding!!  The Mickelson especially, as there was no motorized traffic for us to avoid!  We are now settled in for Happy Hour and a quiet evening at Kemp’s Kamp that has a heated pool, showers, and covered picnic tables—all luxuries.

We started the morning with re-connecting with Brian, and, though guided, a fruitless search for moose.  The Lake was very calm, and begging for some stand up paddle boards or kayaks to bring some rippling.  The sun and temperatures were very pleasant, and we enjoyed another morning of wonder.  

Finished cleaning the Alchemy Atlas that had ridden on the back of the van for a few days.  The bike had collected both road dust and cottonwood seeds.  We wished Brian (and Hollie) well on the acquisition/disposition, along with episode 401 of Grey’s Anatomy!

We ‘conquered’ the remaining 1100 feet of elevation to reach Powder River Pass, and began the ‘descent’ to Buffalo after the motorized biking couple from Cedar Rapids passed each of us by with a friendly beep.  We took a pic at Melissa’s last summit of our journey before she heads home to Colorado, and began our very windy descent, with intermittent ascents, into Buffalo.  The 9% descents, followed with up to 16% climbs, and significant headwinds and sidewinds kept us focused on our riding.

Melissa had come across Chris and Bob again before the summit, and I caught them on the ‘descent.’  Bob encouraged me to catch Melissa (an impossible task, until she stopped to wait).  We exchanged bicycle bell rings ‘till next time.’  Bob and Chris did have a monster day, as they started on their bikes in Ten Sleep, climbed to the summit, and descend into Buffalo after 6,500+ feet of vertical gain, each with ‘fully loaded’ touring bikes, amazing to me! 

Melissa and I met up with Cathy at the Johnson County Library.  (The libraries along the way provided Cathy with the most consistent Wi-Fi access to allow her to work her advisory practice, along with being our nutritionist, porter, supplier, and chin-cook-and-bottle-washer!)  After just a bit, and checking into the historic Occidental, we walked down Main Street to meet Megan and Deanne, who drove up from Denver to pick up Melissa.  We enjoyed lunch, including a deluge of tater tots, while being donated on by Chris (originally from North Carolina).  The restaurant had ‘just’ opened in 2021, a post-pandemic venture.  [Megan shared that HGTV had  recently feature a downtown-makeover of Buffalo!]

We (Megan, Deanne, Melissa, Cathy and I) ‘moved into’ the Occidental, occupying adjoining rooms, and the four of them ventured out to ‘explore’ downtown Buffalo.  I sent out a missive to Chris and Bob, inviting them to our celebratory evening for Melissa’s completion of her planned participation in our journey.  With Chris, we enjoyed more than a couple libations, splitting our time between the Garden along Clear Creek that runs through Buffalo, and the live music and dinner of appetizers in the Saloon.  Cathy tried again to ‘lead’ me in the Texas-Two-Step, but surrendered after I stepped on her toes a myriad of times.  An education to-be-continued?  [Melissa, Megan, Cathy and Deanne did dance with each other, and some of the male attendees in the saloon!]. Melissa, Megan and Deanne interrogated Chris, as I had provided inadequate background prior to his joining us for the evening.  We also heard of some of the educators’ (Melissas, Megan and Deanne are teachers.) experiences and exploits.

After the lights were turned out on us, we all retired to our rooms after a wonder-filled evening!   Tomorrow Melissa heads home, we pick up Daniel and have a day off the bikes before continuing our trek East.

The RV park that we stayed in this night, is owned by a couple, and he had a heart attack, so it is currently ‘unmonitored.’  We knocked on every door and inquired of the owner of the adjacent cafe/bar trying to find someone to get permission to stay.  Eventually, we met someone staying in a cabin on the property who works with the matron.  We contacted the owner and settled up for the night.

While ‘dining,’ we were deluged by cottonwood seeds in a heavy breeze.  We did need to pick the seeds out as we took our food to our mouths!

This morning’s departure involved crossing the railroad tracks while the crew were testing the signals, and crossed while the guard were down (smiles).  The train did come through at 2:09A, just a minute off my prediction.

We are feeling much gratitude on our fortunate timing during this journey.  For example, today as Melissa and I entered Ten Sleep (see pic for where the town’s name derived), Cathy had just parked near the town’s library and a quaint park with a bench for us to enjoy lunch together!  Bob and Chris, who are riding the same direction, and had passed our campsite earlier this morning, ringing their bike bells, were also lunching in Ten Sleep.  Chris came by our picnic, and Cathy and Melissa offered him a couple of oatmeal cream pies for the two of them.  We will hopefully come across them again, as they are riding RAGBRAI, as well.

Riding today out of Manderson, the scenery was close to that of when leaving Cody.  We again saw pronghorns along the way.  With miles behind us, the road started to undulate, and we were riding along the Norwood River.  The combination of arable land and irrigation along the River is impressive to see.  We have wondered, as it seems they are cutting and bailing their hay while still very green.

After Ten Sleep, the climb to the Powder River Pass begins.  There are signs along the way that note the age of the rocks layers, that make me feel young!  The traffic along the road was good, although the semis did whine on the climb.  We have not yet completed the climb, but reaching the Meadowlark Lake Lodge has been one of our biggest climb days.  We are hoping to have a moose sighting, and a clear night for star peeping!

Greeting us at the Meadowlark Lake Lodge was Riley, who is excited to be a senior this coming academic year in Casper.  Hollie provided Melissa and me with a couple of deserved (after the climb) margs.  Pam and Ken (locals to the Bighorns) provided some suggestions for seeing moose.  Brian shared some experiences with staging for television production.  And a couple, also riding in on bikes (the motorized kind), shared how the Lodge had changed over twenty-five years.  [We did not yet have a moose sighting, after dining on our porch and scanning the Lake shore, but there is tomorrow morning!]

Tomorrow is Melissa’s last day of riding with us on this journey.  We are all looking to celebrate along with her friends Meghan and Deanna, who are coming to pick her up and return her to her husband/Darren and puppies/Moose and Reggie!